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「傑米.奧利佛教你怎麼做出『經典奶油培根義大利麵』!」- How to Make Classic Carbonara


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Pasta, cream, bacon! Cream?
義大利麵、奶油、培根!奶油?

Jamie Oliver
傑米.奧利佛

Hi, guys! We're gonna make spaghetti carbonara, a classic Italian dish pasta. Cheese, bacon. What's not to love, right? But it's really controversial. I wanna give you what I think is the most authentic recipe.
嗨,大家!我們今天要做奶油培根義大利麵,一道經典的義大利麵。起司、培根。都超好吃,你說對吧?但這道義大利麵的做法眾說紛紜。我會教你們我覺得最正宗的烹飪方法。

So, first up, guys, you only need five ingredients. Guanciale. This is the cured cheek of pork. And as you can see, it's all about the fat. It's salted; it's got peppered; it's dried, and it's aged. Of course, it's similar to smoked bacon, and you can get some pretty good results, actually. But you can see, this is quite lean, so try and get them to not cut off the fat because you need it. Or there's pancetta.
首先,你只需要五種材料。風乾豬面頰肉(義式醃肉)。這是煙燻過的豬面頰肉。你可以看到,全部都是脂肪。這醃過了;用胡椒調味過;風乾了;也放了比較久。當然,這跟煙燻培根有點像,其實用煙燻培根煮出來也會很好吃。但你看,培根相比之下非常瘦,所以要小心不要切掉脂肪,因為你會需要用到脂肪。或者也可以用這種義大利培根。

Then, most people use parmesan. But actually, the more classic is pecorino romano. Sheep's cheese. It's crumbly; it's salty. Free-range, organic egg. Pasta. Black pepper. And then, optional, garlic.
接著,大部分人會用帕馬森乾酪。但其實最經典的是羅馬綿羊奶酪。意思就是綿羊的奶酪。脆脆的;鹹鹹的。自由放養的有機蛋。義大利麵條。黑胡椒。還有,看你要不要加,蒜頭。

So, first up, guys, grab the pasta by two hands, twist it into the water. By twisting it, it won't stick together. Put a tiny amount of salt in this water because the cheese and the guanciale is salty. This beautiful pasta takes eight minutes to cook.
首先,用兩手抓義大利麵條,扭轉一下,放進水中。扭轉是為了不讓麵條黏在一起。在水中加一點點鹽就好,因為乳酪和醃肉是鹹的。這漂亮的義大利麵要煮八分鐘。

So, I've got my guanciale. I'm gonna remove the skin. And I'm gonna take a nice centimeter-slice of the guanciale, roughly chop this to about half-centimeter chunks. Now, the pan is cold. Turn it on to a medium-high heat. The reason I want it cold is because I want to render the fat out. The guanciale goes into the pan. And this pan is getting hot. Give the garlic a crack, and then put it in the pan. As this starts to sizzle, the fat will just pull out some of that perfume from the garlic.
我手中拿了義式醃肉。接著我要去皮。我大概會切一公分厚,粗略切成半公分厚的小塊。現在平底鍋是冷的。轉到中大火。我不先熱鍋是因為我想要將脂肪逼出來。把醃肉丟進平底鍋中。鍋子慢慢變熱了。敲一下蒜頭,然後丟進鍋中。鍋子開始滋滋作響的時候,脂肪就會帶出一些蒜頭裡的香味。

Then, there's the black pepper. Get your peppercorns in a pestle and mortar. Crack it. Get a little sieve. This is one of the most important little bits, and no one really does it, okay? Honestly. This is the outer skin. This is much milder. What we have here is the inside part of the peppercorn, which is hotter, perfect for a good, hot carbonara. The guanciale is getting golden.
接著是黑胡椒。用研磨器磨出胡椒粒。搗碎。拿個小篩網。這是最重要的小技巧,但很多人都沒這樣做,好嗎?真的。這是胡椒外皮。口味比較淡。我們篩出的部分是胡椒粒的內部粉粒,比較辣,最適合做好吃的辣味義式培根蛋麵。義式醃肉已經煮出金黃色的色澤了。

Now, let's get on to the eggs. Eggs are really, really delicate. And if you don't treat these right, you end up with stir-fried noodles. And we don't want that. I'm gonna take a bowl. And I'm gonna crack the egg straight into there. And I'm just gonna add a little pecorino to that, to, like, 20 grams. Now, we're time-sensitive, so we're gonna have a little whisk up.
那我們現在來準備蛋。蛋是非常、非常脆弱的。如果你沒處理好,就會變成炒麵。我們不希望變成炒麵。我現在要拿個碗。直接把蛋打進碗裡。加一點羅馬綿羊奶酪,大概 20 克。我們要很注意時間,所以現在要把蛋攪勻。

We've got dark guanciale. You've got the fat that's come out of it, and that's what you want. You want attitude and color. Now I'm gonna remove that garlic. Turn the heat off. And you're gonna drag the pasta and the water into the pan. Use the water to stop the frying. A bit of water, a bit of water!
我們炒出深色的醃肉了。油脂都被炒出來了,這就是你要的。你要的就是這個感覺和這個色澤。現在我要把蒜頭拿出來。把火關掉。接著把義大利麵和水撈進平底鍋。用煮麵的水降低平底鍋的溫度。再一點水、再一點水!

That water and the fat—that is what's gonna emulsify to become a creamy sauce. We're not frying anymore. Can you hear that? Quiet. No frying at all. Only then can we think about adding our egg. As we toss, we add some more liquid. Ha-ha. That's the cream. You get the cream through the emulsification of the cooking water, and the fat, and technique, and timing. So as simple as this is, it's technical.
水和油脂--會乳化成奶油般的醬汁。煎鍋沒有滋滋作響了。還有聲音嗎?很安靜。沒有滋滋聲了。這個時候我們才能把蛋加進鍋裡。翻炒時,繼續加一點水。哈哈。奶油醬汁在這。奶油醬汁是由煮沸的水和脂肪乳化而成的,要有技巧,也要抓準時機。看起來很簡單,但其實需要一點技巧的。

Get your friends, your family—get them around the table. Glass of wine! Look at that, guys. Look at that! Carbonara! And you finish with more pepper. Wow! I'm so excited! Spaghetti carbonara with a beautiful, little finishing of pecorino. That is as classic as I can give you guys. From chefs, from nonnas, it's about quality ingredients: the guanciale, the pecorino romano, quality eggs, the pepper—the technique of the pepper—good pasta, and then the sensitivity of cooking it right. Come on! There's a little platter for two people. And of course, the most important thing when you eat pasta is don't watch it, eat it! That, my friend, is a thing of joy.
快叫你的朋友家人過來--讓大家就坐。來一瓶紅酒!大家快看。看看這義大利麵。奶油培根義大利麵!最後再加點胡椒當點綴。哇!我太期待了!奶油培根義大利麵,用一點漂亮的羅馬綿羊乳酪裝飾。這就是我認為最經典的做法了。無論是大廚或是你很會做菜的奶奶都會認同,重要的條件在於優質的食材:風乾豬面頰肉、羅馬綿羊奶酪、優質的蛋、胡椒--要記得做胡椒粒的小技巧--好的義大利麵條,還有對烹飪的敏感度。來吧!這一盤是兩人份。當然,吃義大利麵的時候最重要的一點就是,不要光用看的,大口吃吧!朋友們,這真是件快樂的事。

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